Fence Repair in Baton Rouge

Most fence repairs come down to a handful of problems: a post that leans or snaps, boards or pickets that come loose, a gate that drags, or a run of fence knocked over by wind or a falling limb. The question is always the same — fix the part that failed, or replace the section around it — and the answer depends on what the rest of the fence looks like. This page covers how to look at the damage, what a repair quote should spell out, and what to do after a storm.

Common fence repairs

• Leaning or loose posts. A fence leans because a post has moved, broken, or rotted. Push gently on the fence near each post; the one that moves is usually the problem.
• Broken or rotted posts. A post that has snapped or gone soft at the base generally has to be replaced, which means the panels or rails on each side come off while it is reset.
• Loose, split, or missing boards and pickets. Usually the simplest repair, as long as the posts and rails behind them are sound.
• Sagging or dragging gates. A gate drags when its hinge post leans, its hinges loosen, or the gate frame itself goes out of square. Each has a different fix.
• Chain link damage. Bent top rail, torn or loose fabric, and broken ties can often be repaired in sections.
• Vinyl and aluminum damage. Cracked or popped-out vinyl panels and bent aluminum pickets are usually replaced piece by piece — ask whether matching parts are available for your style.

Checking the damage yourself

Before anyone comes out, walk the whole fence, not just the part that is obviously broken. A few minutes of looking makes the first phone call much more useful:

• Count how many posts lean, wobble, or are broken.
• On wood fences, press a screwdriver into the base of a few posts at ground level. Soft wood there is worth mentioning.
• Note how many feet of fence are down or damaged, roughly.
• Check each gate: does it latch, does it drag, does it swing freely?
• Look at the rest of the fence for the same problem starting elsewhere.
• Take a few photos — of the damage and of the fence as a whole.

That last point matters. If the damage is one post on an otherwise solid fence, a repair is the obvious call. If posts are going all along the line, you may be paying to fix the same problem again next year.

Repair or replace a section?

There is no single rule, but a few questions sort most cases:

• Is the problem isolated? One broken post or a few loose boards on a fence that is otherwise in good shape is a repair.
• Is it spreading? Several posts leaning or soft in different places points toward replacing a section — or the fence.
• Can it be matched? New boards, panels, or pickets will not always match a fence that has weathered or been discontinued. Decide whether that matters to you.
• What would a section cost? As a reference, replacing a 24-foot run works out to about $360 to $720 in wood privacy or $240 to $480 in chain link, using the published per-foot ranges. Compare that with the repair quote.

If replacement starts to make sense for the whole line, the fence installation page covers what a new fence involves. For a 150-foot run, the fence cost guide works through every material.

After a storm

Wind and falling limbs can take down a run of fence all at once. When that happens:

1. Stay clear of hazards. Keep away from any downed power line or anything touching one, and from limbs still hanging in trees.
2. Secure pets and kids. A fence with a gap is no longer keeping anything in. Plan on a temporary fix — a leash, a pen, or a borrowed panel — until it is repaired.
3. Photograph everything before cleanup. Wide shots of the whole fence, close shots of broken posts and panels, and anything that fell on it. Note the date.
4. Keep the pieces you can. Undamaged boards, panels, and hardware can help with matching or reuse.
5. Ask about insurance before you sign. Whether a policy covers fence damage depends on the policy — ask your carrier. Have your photos and the written repair quote ready when you call.

After a widespread storm, many homeowners call at once, so scheduling can take longer than usual. A clear description of the damage — how many feet, how many posts, which gates — helps your request get to the right installer quickly.

What a repair quote should list

A repair quote should be built the same way as a quote for a new fence, just scaled to the part being fixed. Ask for these as separate lines:

1. 1Footage & layoutTotal linear feet, fence height, and where the line runs — drawn or described so you can check it.
2. 2Old-fence removal & haul-offTaking down and hauling away the existing fence, priced on its own line — or stated as not included.
3. 3Materials & postsFence material and style, post type and spacing, and how posts are set.
4. 4Gates & hardwareEach gate's width and type, plus hinges, latches, and any hardware upgrades.

For a repair, the footage line should say exactly which section or posts are being worked on, and the removal line should cover the broken pieces and any debris. If a gate is being rehung or replaced, it belongs on the gates line with the hardware spelled out. Ask your installer who pulls the permit.

Gates that drag or will not latch

A sagging gate is worth describing carefully before anyone comes out. Say whether the gate drags on the ground, whether the latch no longer lines up, and whether the post it hangs on leans. A gate that drags because its hinges have loosened is a quick fix. A gate that drags because its post has moved means resetting or replacing the post, which is a bigger job. Ask the installer which one yours is, and how they will keep it from happening again.

How a repair request moves

Call (225) 351-2857 or send the form with what is broken, roughly how many feet or posts, the material, and whether it was storm damage. Photos help — have them ready for the installer. Your request goes to one local installer, who arranges a visit and puts the repair quote in writing. The quote, the contract, and the work are between you and that installer.